Robertsport

Robertsport is a small fishing community, now famous as Liberia's first surfing spot, located just 10 miles south of the border of Sierra Leon (featured in the recent movie Blood Diamond). The region was first explored by the Portugese in the mid 15th century, and later on became the fist settlement of free American slaves in West Africa. Named Robertsport after Liberia's first president, Joseph Jenkins Roberts, it had the unfortunate early history of severe malaria and a high mortality rate. Multiple subsequent settlements along the coast had to be made prior to sustaining a thriving community.

Now Robertsport is a favorite among both locals and expats, featuring beautiful red beaches mostly free of feces and litter. Many of Africa's beaches are akin to large cat litter boxes but fortunately the best seem to be spared for recreation. Overall the drive from Monrovia can take anywhere from 3 to 5 hours depending on traffic. With gas approximately $5 a gallon, it can also quickly become an expensive endeavor. We had the good fortune, however, to make friends with both a 4X4 vehicle and subsidized gasoline. We enjoyed a bumpy yet roomy, airconditioned ride as opposed to what could have been an expensive logistical nightmare with a taxi. Thank you US tax payers!!

The outskirts of the main city quickly give way to lush jungle and open grasslands dotted with tall palms and canopied trees. This region used to be home to many large game, now mostly gone due to heavy hunting. Our neighbor to the South wasn't called the Ivory Coast for nothing.

Many streams and lakes enjoy the company of freshwater fishermen, equipped with the latest from the Field and Stream catalogue, a bamboo stick with a string and hook. I didn't have the heart to tell them that a significant proportion of them would later suffer from a parasite hosted in freshwater snails called Schistosomiasis. It is a leading cause of portal hypertension in the developing world.

Our journey brought us back to the populated street markets of Red Light. Again people were busy purchasing and trading the things they would need for this next week.

The construction changed to a plantation-style of metal sheeting similar to rural parts of Hawaii. Multiple families live together in smaller rooms divided by blankets and tarps. I know what you are thinking, and 1) no they do not routinely get vaccinated against tetanus, and 2) yes we see and treat acute cases of tetanus here in Liberia.

The ruins of buildings destroyed during the war are a constant reminder of the recent past. I would estimate that about one out of every five buildings we saw had heavy ammunition holes coursing through them and evidence of firebombs.

Finally we reach Nana' Lodge, a small collection of huts and canvas tents on platforms on the beach. This is a highly recommended spot for people to enjoy Robertsport.

After the long car trip I couldn't wait to kick back and enjoy the beach.

Our party of 6 was given the "executive VIP suite" which was actually beautifully constructed with local hardwood floors and wood plank walls and ceiling. Elevated by stilts, it is exactly what one would expect to see in old movies depicting British colonies in Africa. Needless to say we were quite comfortable.

Dinner is served every night for $10 per person, featuring chicken, crab, fish, and lobster all caught fresh in the morning. This hand-dug boat is typical for the ONLY fishing craft we have seen in Liberia.

The beaches were red with streaks of black, and the water was warmer than our showers. Overall this place was paradise!

This tree was legend to be the anchor point for the first explorers of Robertsport. I could imagine this given that it was the tallest tree along the coastline. The base of the root structure continued about 2 stories above the ground.

Sunday marked the third annual Liberian surfing competition. Several competitors, broken down by age class, competed for the title of Liberian surf champion. Surfing here is largely a post-war phenomenon and is becoming increasingly popular. The waves are ideal given its location on a cape. This creates a point break, with large waves smoothly running along the coast, often traveling for 15-20 minutes before breaking on the shore.

Smaller children would watch their parents or older siblings with envy - counting the days until they could compete in the under 15 category. I think Liberia will soon be known as a surfing destination! Well, maybe among West Africans.

We made it back to Monrovia without any casualties, sunburns, deadly snake bites, or car accidents. The entire trip cost us about $60 each, including an amazing seafood dinner and drinks over the weekend. I can't wait to come back!